The Funk Frontier: Embracing Umami, Fermentation, and Flavor Left-Field

For the last two decades, the craft cocktail renaissance has been on a relentless quest for perfection. We’ve mastered the classics, rediscovered forgotten spirits, and elevated our ice, dilution, and technique to a near-scientific art form. The resulting drinks are clean, balanced, and delicious. But what happens after perfection? You get bored. You start searching for the beautiful, the unexpected, and the complex. You start to crave the funk.

A seismic shift is happening behind the world’s best bars. The clean lines of sweet, sour, and bitter are being beautifully smudged by a fifth dimension of flavor: the savory, the fermented, the thrillingly unfamiliar. This is the "funk"—a catch-all for the umami-rich, texturally complex, and olfactorily challenging ingredients that are migrating from the chef’s pantry to the bartender’s rail.

Here in early September 2025, as the last of the summer harvest in New England gives way to the earthy promise of autumn, this trend feels more relevant than ever. It’s a move away from the simple and straightforward and a deep dive into flavors that tell a story of time, transformation, and terroir. This isn’t about making "weird" drinks for the sake of it. This is the next evolution of our craft, a fusion of the kitchen and the bar that unlocks an entirely new universe of taste. So, let’s get with the funk.

Why Funk? Why Now? The Philosophy of the Savory Sip

This movement isn't a fleeting gimmick; it's a convergence of several powerful currents in the food and beverage world.

First and foremost is the complete dissolution of the wall between the kitchen and the bar. Bartenders are adopting culinary techniques and thinking more like chefs than ever before, focusing on ingredient provenance, texture, and the artful layering of flavors. When your bar operates with the mindset of a Michelin-starred kitchen, you naturally start reaching for the same ingredients: the fermented pastes, the complex spices, and the savory elements that create depth and surprise.

Second, there’s a growing global palate. Drinkers are more adventurous than ever, their tastes shaped by global travel and access to a world of cuisines. The same person who enjoys the fermented tang of kimchi or the rich umami of ramen is not only ready for but is actively seeking those flavor profiles in their glass. The demand for cocktails that are less sweet and more complex has paved the way for savory, saline, and sour notes to take center stage.

Finally, the sustainability movement has had a profound impact. "Nose-to-tail" cooking has inspired "root-to-flower" mixology. Why throw away the fruit pulp from your juicer or the vegetable scraps from your prep when they can be transformed? Fermentation, pickling, and creating cordials from what was once considered waste is not only responsible, but it also unlocks novel flavors that you can’t get anywhere else. The funk, in many ways, is the flavor of ingenuity and resourcefulness.

The Umami Bomb: Unlocking Savory Depths

Umami, the fifth taste, is best described as a savory, brothy, mouth-filling sensation. It’s what makes aged cheeses, seared mushrooms, and soy sauce so satisfying. Bringing this element into cocktails is a game-changer for creating depth and a long, lingering finish.

Miso: This fermented soybean paste is an umami powerhouse. White miso (Shiro) is sweeter and more mellow, making it an excellent starting point. Red miso (Aka) is fermented longer, offering a far more pungent and salty kick.

• How to Use It: The easiest entry point is a miso-syrup. Gently heat equal parts honey or sugar and water, and whisk in a small amount of white miso until fully dissolved (don't boil it). A Miso-Honey Syrup in a Whiskey Sour or Penicillin is a revelation. You can also use miso for a "dirty" element in a Martini or add a tiny amount to a flip for a salty-caramel note.

• Pairs With: Whiskey (especially Japanese and Bourbon), Mezcal, Aged Rum.

Tahini: Made from ground sesame seeds, tahini offers less umami and more creamy texture and nutty flavor. It adds body and a silky mouthfeel that is utterly unique.

• How to Use It: Think of it as a savory orgeat. A Tahini Sour, made by shaking gin or bourbon with lemon, simple syrup, and a bar spoon of tahini, is incredibly rich and complex. It also works wonders in milk punches or creamy, stirred-down drinks where it can be fat-washed into the spirit.

• Pairs With: Bourbon, Rye, Gin, Aged Tequila.

Umeboshi: These are Japanese salt-pickled plums, and they are an absolute explosion of flavor—intensely salty and fiercely sour. A little goes a very long way.

• How to Use It: Muddle a small piece of an umeboshi plum (pit removed) in the bottom of a shaker for a salty, fruity kick in a Gimlet or a Daiquiri. Use the brine to make a "Dirty" Ume Martini. You can also blend the paste into a cordial to create a shelf-stable, high-impact modifier.

• Pairs With: Gin, Vodka, Shochu, Blanco Tequila.

The Tingle and the Twang: Atypical Botanicals

Beyond the familiar world of cinnamon and star anise lies a realm of botanicals that do more than just add flavor—they alter the physical experience of a drink.

Szechuan Peppercorns: The magic of this spice isn't its heat (which is minimal) but its ability to create a tingling, numbing sensation known as málà. It makes your palate come alive, enhancing other flavors in the drink.

• How to Use It: Never use them raw. Lightly toast the peppercorns in a dry pan until fragrant, then infuse them into a spirit or a simple syrup. A Szechuan-infused gin makes a G&T that buzzes on the tongue, while a tincture can be dashed into a Margarita to create an electric, tingling finish.

• Pairs With: Gin, Tequila, Mezcal, Light Rum.

Hops: The key flavoring agent in beer is a wonderfully versatile cocktail ingredient. Different varieties of hops can provide a spectrum of flavors, from the bright citrus and grapefruit notes of Citra hops to the piney, resinous character of Simcoe or the "dank," earthy notes of Mosaic.

• How to Use It: The best method is to create a hop syrup by steeping hop pellets (available at homebrew shops) in hot simple syrup for 10-15 minutes before straining. You can also make a potent tincture with high-proof neutral grain spirit. A hopped grapefruit syrup in a Paloma is a modern classic in the making.

• Pairs With: Gin (think of it as another botanical!), Genever, Blanco Tequila, Vodka.

The Power of Patience: Fermentation and Preservation

Fermentation is nature’s own alchemy, a process that creates acidity, complexity, and effervescence while preserving ingredients.

• Lacto-Fermentation: This is the process behind sauerkraut and kimchi. Submerging fruits or vegetables in a salt brine creates an environment where beneficial lactobacillus bacteria thrive, converting sugars into lactic acid. This acid is softer and more complex than citrus. A lacto-fermented tomato water for a Bloody Mary or a lacto-fermented plum brine for a savory highball adds layers of funk you can't get any other way.

• Kombucha and Water Kefir: These fermented drinks are now mainstream, but they are still underutilized as cocktail ingredients. Use a spicy ginger kombucha in place of ginger beer in a Mule, or a tart raspberry water kefir as the base for a complex, low-ABV Collins.

• Shrubs (Drinking Vinegars): While technically a preservation method using vinegar rather than fermentation, shrubs fit squarely in the funk family. They combine fruit, sugar, and vinegar to create a sweet, tangy syrup that is the ultimate secret weapon. A seasonal shrub—like the apple and pear shrubs we can make right now—can form the entire flavor base of a fantastic fizz or sour.

Waste Not, Want Not: The Scrappy Revolution

Embracing the funk also means embracing sustainability. Your prep station's waste bin is a treasure trove of flavor.

• Citrus Husks: After juicing, don't toss your lemon, lime, and grapefruit shells. Use them to make an oleo saccharum, or boil them with water and sugar to create a citrus stock that adds body and flavor back into your drinks.

• Fruit & Vegetable Pulp: The pulp left over from juicing apples, carrots, or beets can be dehydrated and turned into a flavorful powder for a rim garnish. It can also be used as the base for a shrub or infused into a spirit.

• Cores, Peels, and Stems: Right now, apple season is starting. Apple cores and peels can be simmered with water, sugar, and cinnamon to create a beautiful syrup. The leafy tops of strawberries can be infused into gin. Herb stems can be blended into syrups. This mindset forces creativity and results in truly unique, location-specific flavors.

Getting Started: A Practical Guide to the Funk

Diving in can feel intimidating. Here are four simple rules to guide you.

1. Balance is King. Funky ingredients are potent. They are a seasoning, not the main event. A drink with miso still needs a clear sour and sweet component to achieve balance. Use the funk to add a surprising baseline or a lingering finish, not to overwhelm the senses.

2. Start Small. Before you make a full-strength infusion, make a small tincture. Before you put a full bar spoon of tahini in a drink, try a quarter. Use rinses, sprays, and dashes to see how these powerful flavors interact before you commit.

3. Think Like a Chef. Use established culinary pairings as your guide. Miso and caramel are a classic dessert pairing, so it will work beautifully with the caramel notes of bourbon. Tahini is a staple in Middle Eastern cuisine alongside lemon and herbs; it’s a natural fit for a gin-based Southside.

4. The Gateway Drink. Pick a simple, classic template like a Daiquiri or a Whiskey Sour and make one small, funky change. Try that Whiskey Sour with a maple syrup that has a pinch of smoked paprika in it. Make a Daiquiri but use a saline solution made with umeboshi brine instead of plain salt. This iterative process is the best way to learn and develop your palate.

   
   

The future of cocktails isn’t just about finding balance; it’s about finding intrigue. It’s about creating drinks that make you pause, ponder, and ask, “What is that?” The funk is where the memories are made. It's the flavor of curiosity, the taste of innovation. So, open up your pantry, look in your fridge, and don't be afraid to get a little weird. The frontier of flavor is waiting.